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The Low Drains Drifter
(Pike & Predators 2009 )

Using suspended baits to exploit drift might be nothing new to tackle large lakes, but what about smaller waters? With some thought and adaptation, this style of scaled down, “mini” drifter fishing is a cracking little method in its own right.

In today’s pike fishing scene it is rare that you find an idea that is completely fresh. But by altering the application of a particular method, and tailoring it to different requirements, just occasionally you stumble on something novel and deadly. The scaled down drifter technique is a great example of this.
  

Drifter fishing is, admittedly, not the most popular method going. Its application is generally reserved for large stillwaters, where stiff rods and big, beefy sail topped floats are the order of the day. Although based on the same principle of harnessing the elements to search out the pike, the technique for small waters such as drains, canals and manmade rivers is thus a different beast altogether.

Original Drifters
    I ought to confess from the onset, that this style of scaled down drifter fishing is not my own invention. It is one I’ve “borrowed” (ok, I mean “nicked”) and adapted in the course of my own fishing. The chief instigators for my own education have been Devon pike anglers Alan Nicholls and Jim Moore. The method originates from sessions tackling smallish canals and drains for pike, during which some bright spark decided to play around with suspended baits, fished well off the deck. To cut a long story short, the method was dynamite. Whether the pike could see the bait more easily or this approach just covered more water, it was a winner. On days where the water was towing, choppy or generally agitated it proved especially deadly, giving a small dead bait additional movement and searching out wide areas to great effect. Various refinements to tackle and technique, which we’ll deal with shortly, have made the method even better still.
  

So where do we place the idea? I can recall plenty of tales of live baits being allowed to rove- but the methods should not be confused. Personally, I am not keen on live baiting at all. However, whilst we are on that subject, I believe that the scaled down drifter is a top class alternative. I can’t remember many days where this enjoyable method didn’t score. For my money, it neatly fills the gap between dead baiting and wobbling.

 For many anglers however, presenting a Deadbait above the deck and leaving it to the mercy of wind and undertow is simply not cricket. On a huge lake, yes, but certainly not on a narrow, manmade water. Indeed, to get any joy with the technique you’ll have to abandon the idea that a Deadbait invariably belongs on the bottom. Perhaps it is a confidence thing; it certainly doesn’t feel very natural for the angler accustomed to fishing static baits. Whatever your own ideas however, rest assured that pike find the practise perfectly acceptable. And why not? Ask yourself, do dead and dying fish always sit on the bottom or float to the surface? Not at all; quite often they drift weakly along in mid water. In truth this is not the commonest natural occurrence- but to a predator, the sight of a small fish clearly in view and drifting along lifelessly or on death’s door makes an effortless target to grab with minimum effort.  

Tackle & Technique
Apart from its effectiveness, I love the scaled down drifter style because it has a real degree of finesse and intimacy. In a nutshell it is all about having good line control and teasing the bait through likely areas with the aid of the tow or breeze, in convincing natural fashion. So what is our optimum set up?
  

Starting with the float, our huge, sail topped drifter model can stay at home. In its place we have a fairly chunky small to medium pike float such as the Drennan pike bob. Whilst huge floats are a no-no, skinny models are also out because we want a decent profile to catch the chop and tow. A good general rule is to match the float to bait size- sea baits generally require a bit more support than roach or coarse offerings, which will often only just sink and can be presented on a lighter model.
 

The float itself is cocked by a drilled bullet or egg sinker, depth controlled with the usual bead and float stop. My own thoughts on traces are very similar to those of fellow drifter Jim Moore; we tend to use smallish baits and present these on a wire trace culminating in just ONE largish treble. Generally speaking, a typical offering  will be engulfed by all but the smallest pike and a firm, early strike results in perfect hooking almost every time.
  

On the subject of bait, top choices include roach, sprat and smelt. For the record, it is possibly the only method with which I’ve ever had dynamic results using sprats. Dyed baits can also be highly useful where you find less than clear water, with gold particularly good. For the record, ammo baits produce healthy sized gold dyed sprats that are perfect for the job. Note that the bait is not hooked like a usual dead bait, but is presented upright, hooked through the back with a fairly large treble (size 4-6). An underarm swing is generally preferred to get the bait out so as not to tear hooks out- although if you require more distance, coarse baits are tougher. If losses are too frequent, you can also try bait saver tags or using a special clip such as those I modify for my own wobbling rigs.

  
Complete Control
   Specifics aside, the real nub of the method is, I repeat, maintaining good line control. Braid or mono is down to personal choice, but your chosen line must float. A line spray or regular application of mucilin does the trick to keep the line behaving as it should, sitting crisply on the surface. A long rod is also a must and my favoured blank is a 2lb test specimen model with a decent tip to tease the bait, but muscle lower down to set hooks. I am loathe to use heavy blanks for most smaller venues, simply for sporting reasons- use quality, finer guage hooks such as owners and you’ll still set hooks on the strike and have a lot more fun than using a pit set up. Whatever your chosen tool though, twelve foot plus of rod will help to pick up slack line, which could be several yards, on the strike.
  

To small water regulars, I scarcely need mention the importance of covering near and far bank features accurately and effectively. With this method it is possible to present your bait right along these key areas with maximum efficiency, letting your bait push right along them. Some waters regularly tow from side to side whilst on others, such as well exposed drains, the wind can be equally effective. Either way, the best way to proceed is to let out line to allow the float move freely and naturally. Allowing a bow to form in the line will help keep your bait drifting tight to far bank features. Alternately, if you stop the line, the bait will gradually drift into the middle- which can also be worth trying when the pike are lying deeper in the main channel.
  

Depth is down to experimentation- but the aim is to suspend the bait just above bottom weed and debris, in plain view of any hungry eyes. If the float starts to slow or stop you immediately know you’ve hit a snag or the bottom and can shallow up accordingly. In fact, just like on larger waters you’ll quickly identify major depth changes and snaggier/weedier areas, which can speed up the vital work of getting to know a venue and its idiosyncrasies.
 

Talking of snags and weed, you’ll find the “mini drifter” a great way of avoiding debris. On these days when your ledger lines are a magnet for all manner of floating crud, it is a great way of contacting pike rather than just assorted rubbish.

Tricks for Takes
 It is not drastically often you hear of a piking method being one of finesse and subtlety- but the mini drifter is certainly an exception. You will certainly require some technical tweaking and a willingness to fine tune your approach from one cast to the next. What you won’t require is comfortable conditions. Indeed, it is the sort of approach that loves the conditions you hate. A choppy, overcast day is absolutely ideal. Don’t be put off by some extra colour in the water either- consider slightly bigger offerings or dyed baits if bites are not forthcoming and you suspect the pike are struggling to spot a free meal.   
  

The ideal starting point on most drains, canals and similar venues is to search near and far bank features and, whether there are features galore or none at all, that critical shelf or “drop off” on each side where deep and shallower water meet. That said, the central channel can also be a holding area, especially during harsh, cold periods and may be worth a look if the usual features aren’t producing. All areas can be searched with a suspended, drifting bait. Because the drift will often keep your offering just tripping along gently, even those less than ravenous pike will have plenty of time to spot the bait and make their minds up. Even on a poor day, guide your tackle through the right areas and you will cover plenty of fish. The odd one at the very least is sure to take a look. I have yet to take that stupendously chunky, lazy canal twenty pounder on the method- but on the other hand plenty of doubles have fallen to these small, gently drifted baits. These better fish are not as susceptible to poor presentation as some believe and often need time to react.
  

The “mini drifter”  is very much a one rod method if you really want to get maximum results. I have on occasion fished a second rod on an alarm, but it does cramp your style and for the sake of avoiding deeply hooked pike you simply can’t stray from your other set up. On those occasions where I have used a second leger rod however, the drifted bait has frequently taken twice as many pike as the static set up.
 

With just the one rod you can give the drifter your full attention. Even little changes in details such as depth, bait choice or areas searched can really affect results, whilst it is also possible to produce an “induced take”. By simply checking the progress of the float briefly or giving the rod tip a tweak, you can make the bait slow, shudder or lift enticingly. The only method I can compare it too is the skilful manipulation of tackle by an angler long trotting a river.  It can be a compelling exercise and thrilling too, when the response is a bold take. One tip I learned from ace practitioner Jim Moore is to crimp the single treble to your wire trace rather than tying it, so that it moves freely on a little loop. The “pivot point” created makes the bait lift and shudder beautifully when you stop the line briefly.
  

I can only stress again the advantage of using a single rod, thereby aiming for full control and getting immersed in the whole process.  Takes vary greatly on the float and, lets face it, are some of the most visually exciting moments a pike angler experiences. Usually the float will give an initial pluck as the bait is seized- it will then generally start a second move, sliding to one side and under. On occasion the bite will be more gentle- but you risk little by striking at unusual movements. I detest the practise of delaying the strike, and with a smallish, suspended bait there is absolutely no need- the float moving off can only mean one thing and any pike of more than pygmy proportions with engulf the bait. Quickly take up any slack and make a firm, sweeping strike. Few methods will give you such perfect hooking, with virtually no risk of having to retrieve deeply gorged trebles. I would though, urge all readers to try just a single, large treble.

Catch my Drift?
I hope I have at least whet readers appetites in my rough guide to this brilliant little method. Although there may be some characters scratching heads at the concept, I can assure the doubters that it is far from experimental or whimsical. I have already written on the issue of pleasurable methods and the scaled down drifter ranks pretty high on the list; definitely one to try for those bored of staple tactics and the usual waiting game that is static dead baiting. If you enjoy tackling any relatively shallow drain, rhyne, canal or similar you may well find the “mini drifter” just the ticket. Slow rivers and smaller lakes are also worth a try. Where it has been less effective, admittedly, has been on those bigger man made venues where depths are greater and locating pike in the darker depths can be trickier, although I’d never say never.
  

Without wishing to lecture readers, I am also a firm believer that there is a great deal more to any branch of fishing than plain efficiency and the relentless pursuit of huge fish. I may have taken bigger pike on static lines, but some of my most memorable fishing of late has been on the small water drifter. Furthermore, a single treble permits simple unhooking virtually every time and an almost instant release, a case of maximum pleasure, minimum stress for angler and fish alike. One or two sessions when a local small canal has been as clear as glass have been especially thrilling. Running baits past visible but cagey pike can be a real cat and mouse affair, utterly tantalising. From the smash and grab takes of little jacks through to those sleepy beasts that refuse to shift an inch, it’s all excellent, visual fun.  Nothing beats the moment when that little twitch finally persuades another toothy diner to bite, followed by a thrilling fight on light tackle. So, whether you’re one of life’s habitual drifters or not, this intimate and pike-friendly method is well worth a try.

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